When considering the process of
conventional shopping we immediately think about neat rows of pristine
garments, just waiting to be touched and tried on. Clothes glistening as they
hang on mannequins, the feel of something new when you wear if for the first time
and the exciting rush of the fitting rooms. What a thrill it is finding that
perfect item and finally the shiny packaging!
“Oh look a lovely floral corset dress; the colour combination is lovely indeed. It
would be great for dinners too”. As you console yourself with your sensible
purchase. The thought of your next
outing in a glossy new dress and what it might match in your bursting-to-the-brim
wardrobe. Full of garb you don’t remember buying. Sound familiar yet? You
already imagine yourself posing in front of the mirror with it playing dress up
at home. The smugness you believe you will feel when you see jealous looks on friend’s
faces. Surely this delight can’t be that bad, the odd treats you buy to pass
your time on a lunch hour. After all you deserve it don’t you? You think to
yourself I work so hard and anyway, it doesn’t matter its just another £10.
The fact is today’s shopaholics are
in denial. They operate in an industry
that allows individuals to fund their addictions with plastic. Many have a
shameful disbelief that they can all act and dress like pop stars. With each
covetable item making them even more stylish and classy. Fashion has been
allowed to become the superficial fix to patch up people’s deeper personal problems.
The worst thing is the industry actually endorses these shallow views that
goods are a solution to all of lives problems.
The issue is consumers shopping do
not consider the chemically processed man-made fibres itching at their skin.
The harshness of the shop lighting, workers sweating away in sweatshops 12
hours a day or the fish floating listlessly in nearby waterways to bring them
an acid washed, dip dyed pair of jeans. Even those shoppers who claim to be
well educated don’t care; in the 21st century it’s all about
fabricating an image. Consumers
are showing little change in their habits they will quite happily spend on an
item only to throw it away carelessly in 3 months time. The problem is shoppers
aren’t just buying the odd item now and again; they are buying time after time
to perk themselves up from their hectic lives. One in today’s society must have
an image.
Sustainable fashion is something that has been
shifting on and off the radar for a few years now. The word eco-fashion still
gives the average ‘Fashionista’ nightmares, and conjures up images of garish
hemp clad hippies. You know the rugged looking tie-dye wearing types. However,
for some designers eco-fashion has become more than just a buzzword. With some
brands offering simple, collectable and dare I say it stylish pieces, which
haven’t been made through the exploitation of human and natural resources. If
in doubt google Eva Zingoni who up-cycles excess fabric from Parisian fashion
houses, ASOS Africa who employ Kenyan cooperatives, also Fair and True who use
organic bamboo from Vietnam.
In a groundbreaking move fashion
houses such as Vivienne Westwood, H&M, Marks & Spencers, and WGSN are
part of an industry consortium operating under the title of NICE CONSUMER
exploring sustainable fashion. Those steering the helm are helping these firms
to make decisions whether it is valuable to them to hop on the ecologically
friendly bandwagon so to speak. NICE CONSUMER are investigating whether
practices endorsed by sustainable firms are really profitable, to appeal to a
fresher, more demanding market of eco-warriors. Larger firms are facing pressure
from groups of individuals who are not accustomed to the spend-spend-spend ethos
of those growing up in the 90’s boom years. A hybrid consumer is emerging which is not only
uncomfortable with current industry practices, but demand durable attire at a
reasonable price. There are broad ranges of demographic groups who are becoming
more aware of processes such as ‘Up cycling’ as a preferred production method.
With potential for organic fabrics and zero-waste design to change the way
people think about purchasing their clothes. Yet, not all of these groups can
afford to buy the likes of Stella McCartney. Who actually has managed to make
vegetarian footwear appealing! What NICE CONSUMER is exploring is whether it is
viable to provide a sustainable palette for everyone.
In an attempt to carve a sizeable chunk in a
highly specialised niche market NICE CONSUMER are actively looking for dynamic,
fiery and passionate individuals to get involved in the consultation process.
Critical questions that need to be addressed by the Advisory Group consider
issues with respect to both consumers and producers. Potentially explosive
questions could inspire a whole new attitude towards the economic cycle that
generates fashion. These are the questions we will be considering in the next
few days. What is the role of government if any to play in driving behaviour
change in the fashion industry? Is there potential for new enterprise to make
the process much less wasteful? What policies are workable to encourage
sustainable business practices? And how can firms address the buying behaviours
of consumers through advertising or incentivise different structures for
producers?
If you find this topic fascinating and feel you
have something to contribute to these questions participate in
the NICE Consumer project’s consultation process. By emailing niceconsumer@bsr.org to join in a webinar.
